Explosives

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Glossary of Explosives NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.

 

AMMONIUM NITRATE

Is classified as an oxidizer. An oxidizer is a substance that readily yields oxygen or other oxidizing substances to promote the combustion of organic matter or other fuel. Ammonium nitrate alone is not an explosive material. However, Federal explosives storage regulations require the separation of explosive magazines from nearby stores of ammonium nitrate by certain minimum distances.

ANFO {Ammonium Nitrate Fuel Oil}
ammonium nitrate and 2.5 to 15% liquid fuel
{3% being most sensitive, 6-7% being most powerful}
you can find ammonium nitrate in fertilizer and fuel oil is just disel best to ground the disel in a coffe grinder for better blast.

 

BLACK POWDER

A deflagrating or low explosive compound of an intimate mixture of sulfur, charcoal, and an alkali nitrate (usually potassium or sodium nitrate). See LOW EXPLOSIVES.

BLASTING AGENT

Any material or mixture consisting of fuel and oxidizer intended for blasting, not otherwise defined as an explosive, provided that the finished product, as mixed for use or shipment, cannot be detonated by means of a No. 8 test blasting cap when unconfined.

BOOSTER

An explosive charge, usually a high explosive used to initiate a less sensitive explosive. A booster can be either cast, pressed, or extruded.

BULK MIX

A mass of explosive material prepared for use in bulk form without packaging.

COMMERCIAL EXPLOSIVES

Explosives designed, produced, and used for commercial or industrial applications, rather than for military purposes.

COMMON CHEMICALS

Any chemical compound or element that, as part of a physical mixture, would be necessary for that mixture to be considered an explosive mixture; or any chemical compound or element that could be classified as an oxidizer or as a readily available fuel.

C4

A military plastic/moldable high explosive.

DEALER (FEDERAL)

Any person engaged in the business of distributing explosive materials at wholesale or retail.

DETECTION TAGGANTS

A marker or taggant placed into an explosive material that has utility before a bomb explodes.

DETECTION TAGGANTS WITH IDENTIFICATION CAPABILITIES

A marker or taggant placed into an explosive material that has both pre-blast and post-blast utility.

DETONATION

An explosive reaction that moves through an explosive material at a velocity greater than the speed of sound.

DETONATOR

Any device containing an initiating or primary explosive that is used for initiating a detonation. A detonator may not contain more that 10 g of total explosives by weight, excluding ignition or delay charges. The term includes, but is not limited to, electric blasting caps of instantaneous and delay types, blasting caps for use with safety fuses, detonating cord delay connectors, and nonelectric instantaneous and delay blasting caps which use detonating cord, shock tube, or any other replacement for electric leg wires.

DETONATING CORD

A flexible cord containing a center core of high explosive and used to initiate other explosives.

DMNB

2,3-Dimethyl – 2,3-dinitrobutane. One of four high-vapor pressure chemicals approved by the U.N. Council of the International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) to be added to plastic explosives as a detection marker.

DYNAMITE

A high explosive used for blasting, consisting essentially of a mixture of, but not limited to, nitroglycerin, nitrocellulose, ammonium nitrate, sodium nitrate, and carbonaceous materials.

EMULSIONS

An explosive material containing substantial amounts of oxidizers dissolved in water droplets surrounded by an immiscible fuel.

EXPLOSIVE

Any chemical compound, mixture, or device, the primary or common purpose of which is to function by explosion.

EXPLOSIVES INCIDENTS

This term encompasses actual and attempted explosive/incendiary bombings, stolen, and recovered explosives, hoax devices, and accidental explosions, as defined in ATF’s Arson and Explosives Incidents Report.

EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS

These include explosives, blasting agents, and detonators. Explosive materials include, but are not limited to, all items in the List of Explosive Materials.

EXPLOTRACER TAGGANT

ExploTracer is based on synthetic granules dyed with fluorescent pigments and iron particles. To ensure that each particle has a distinctive code of its own, rare earth elements are added.

FERTILIZER

A substance used to make soil more fertile, such as ammonium nitrate.

FILLER

A type of explosive/incendiary/chemical substance which, in combination with a fusing and/or firing system, constitutes an improvised explosive device (e.g. dynamite, match heads, gasoline).

FLAMMABLE LIQUID

Combustible. A flammable material is one that is ignited easily and burns readily, i.e., gasoline, charcoal lighter fluid, diesel fuel, and paint thinners.

FUEL

Any substance that reacts with the oxygen in the air or with the oxygen yielded by an oxidizer to produce combustion.

HIGH EXPLOSIVES

Explosives which are characterized by a very high rate of reaction, high pressure development, the presence of a detonation wave in the explosive, and which can be caused to detonate by means of a blasting cap when unconfined.

HF-6 TAGGANT

HF-6 is similar to the 3M (Microtaggant) and is coded according to its several layers of color. The HF-6 taggant was developed by Swiss Blasting, and is used exclusively in its own products.

HMTD

An abbreviation for the name of the explosive hexamethylene triperoxide diamine.

ICPM

A minute post-blast taggant manufactured by Synthesia, Czech Republic. The taggant is comprised of Urea Formaldehyde Resin, Silicon Oxide, Rhodamin B, Iron, and oxides of metal.

IDENTIFICATION TAGGANTS

A marker or taggant placed into an explosive material that has utility after an explosion to identify the manufacturer, the date, and shift when it was manufactured. Once this type taggant is located and identified, the information it provides would allow law enforcement to trace all of the same type explosives manufactured on that specific date and shift to all of the legal purchasers.

IMPORTER

Any person engaged in the business of importing or bringing explosive materials into the United States for purposes of sale or distribution.

INTERSTATE OR FOREIGN COMMERCE

Commerce between any place in a State and any place outside of that State, or within any possession of the United States (not including the Canal Zone) or the District of Columbia, and commerce between places within the same State but through any place outside of that State.

INTRASTATE

Pertaining to or existing within the boundaries of a State of residence.

ISOTAG

A readily identifiable, mass-enhanced, non-radioactive molecular marker that employs the unique chemical structure of the host product without harm to the quality of the product or the environment.

LICENSE (FEDERAL)

Required if a person is intending to engage in the business as an explosive materials manufacturer, importer, or dealer and allows a person to transport, ship, and receive explosive materials in interstate or foreign commerce.

LICENSEE

Any importer, manufacturer, or dealer licensed under the Federal explosives laws.

LOW EXPLOSIVES

Explosives which are characterized by deflagration (a rapid combustion that moves through an explosive material at a velocity less than the speed of sound).

MARKER

See Taggant.

METRIC TON

2,204.6 pounds or 1,000 kilograms.

MICROSPHERE

A solid glass ball, 37-840 microns in size, which can be manufactured to contain different chemical compositions to be used as identifiers.

MICROTAGGANT

Color-coded, polymer microchip consisting of ten layers including a magnetic layer and a fluorescent layer, which is intended to function as an identification taggant. The chip was developed by the 3M Company, but is now manufactured by Microtrace, Minneapolis, Minnesota, which acquired the rights to production in 1984.

NITROGEN (N)

N is one of the three primary plant nutrients, together with phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).

OTHER

For purposes of the AEIR, the category of Other includes: match heads, military explosives (excluding C4 and TNT), improvised mixtures, flares, boosters, detonating cord, gases, blasting caps, PETN, RDX, HMTD, model rocket propellant, and smoke grenades.

OXIDIZER OR OXIDIZING MATERIAL

A substance, such as a nitrate, that readily yields oxygen or other oxidizing substances to stimulate the combustion of organic matter or other fuel.

PERMIT

Is required if any person intends to acquire for use, explosive materials from a licensee in a State other than the State in which he/she resides, or from a foreign country, or who intends to transport explosive materials in interstate or foreign commerce.

PERMITTEE

Any person who has obtained a Federal User Permit to acquire, ship, or transport explosive materials in interstate or foreign commerce.

PERSON

Any individual, corporation, company, association, firm, partnership, society, or joint stock company.

PETN

An abbreviation for the name of the explosive pentaerythritol tetranitrate.

PHOTOFLASH AND FIREWORKS POWDER

An explosive material intended to produce an audible report and a flash of light when ignited, and typically containing potassium perchlorate, sulfur or antimony sulfide, and aluminum metal.

PRECURSOR CHEMICALS

Any chemical compound or element which can be subjected to a chemical reaction or series of reactions in order to synthesize the chemical compound or element into an explosive compound.

PYROTECHNIC

A chemical mixture which, upon burning, produces visible, brilliant displays, bright lights, or sounds.

RDX

An abbreviation for the name of the explosive cyclonite, hexogen, T4, cyclo-1,3,5,-trimethylene-2,4,6- trinitramine; hexahydro-1,3,5,-trinitro S-triazine.

REWORKED EXPLOSIVES

Any residual or off specification material which can be recycled within the manufacturing process.

SMOKELESS POWDER

Any of a class of explosive propellants that produce comparatively little smoke on explosion and consist mostly of gelatinized cellulose nitrates.

SPECIALTY EXPLOSIVES

Any specialty tool used for a particular purpose other than blasting, such as explosive-actuated device (jet-tappers, jet perforators), propellant-actuated power device (construction nail guns), commercial C-4, detasheet, oil well perforating guns, etc.

SLURRY

An explosive material containing substantial portions of a liquid, oxidizer, and fuel, plus a thickener.

TAGGANT

A solid, liquid, or vapor emitting substance put into an explosive material for the purposes of detection or identification. Also known as a marker or tracer element.

(For purposes of this report, "tagging" is the act of marking or adding a taggant to an explosive material.)

TATP

Triacetone Triperoxide – A highly sensitive primary explosive manufactured from common chemicals such as acetone, peroxide, and acid.

TNT

An abbreviation for the name of the explosive trinitrotoluene.

TON

2,000 pounds or 0.907 metric ton.

TRACER ELEMENT

See Taggant.

UNDETERMINED

For purposes of the AEIR, the category of Undetermined captures incidents in which fillers could not be identified through laboratory analysis or incomplete data that was reported.

UREA AMMONIUM NITRATE (UAN)

UAN solution is a popular liquid fertilizer in the United States and other industrialized areas.

USERS

Any persons who purchase and use explosives within their State of residence and are not Federal licensees or permittees.

WATER GEL

An explosive material containing substantial portions of water, oxidizers, and fuel, plus a cross-linking agent which may be a high explosive or blasting agent.



And Now How To Make Them


Chemical Name------------------HouseHold Name

acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
ethylene dichloride dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magesium silicate talc
magesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter
potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium choride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glaubers' salt
sodium thiosulfate photographers hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc choride tinner's fluid



  1. Potassium perchlorate and cane sugar
  2. Sodium nitrate and sulphur flour
  3. Potassium bichromate and Antimony sulfide
  4. Guanidine nitrate and powdered antimony
  5. Potassium permanganate and powdered sugar
  6. Barium chlorate and paraffin wax
  7. Sodium chlorite and aluminum powder(not sure about this one)
  8. Magnesium perchlorate and cane sugar
  9. Ammonium nitrate (more than 40%pure) and gasoline(VERY POWERFUL)
  10. Sodium peroxide and flowers of sulphur






Artificial Meteor Showers
by Dave Caulkins


Here is an idea for a REALLY large-scale fireworks display, one which fits in with current politics: use to-be-destroyed ballistic missiles to produce firework-type displays in the form of artificial meteor (AM) showers.

How would it work?

Russian ICBMs like the SS-18 have throw weights (amount of payload they can deliver on target) of about 7,000 Kg. US ICBMs have smaller throw weights of approximately 3,500 Kg.

The average 'shooting star' type meteor with the same brightness as the brightest stars weighs about 1 gram when it starts to enter the atmosphere.

So as a first cut let's make our artificial meteors (AMs) have masses of 0.1 Kg, which would produce very spectacular fireballs as they burn up in the atmosphere. 3,5000.1 = 35,000 individual AMs, each one MUCH brighter than the average shooting star, and all appearing in a period of tens of seconds over a place whose location can be selected to within better than 1 kilometer.

Even with the smaller throw weights of shorter-range, less capable ballistic missiles the number of AMs could be impressively large.

We probably don't want them in a cluster the size of an ICBM reentry vehicle, so we would want the missile payload to be something like a 'shell' with a bursting charge set off after the missile left the atmosphere, and calculated to separate the AMs into a cloud 1 or 2 kilometers in diameter on reentry.

Like color? Make the individual AMs out of the usual color-generating elements: copper (blue), strontium (red), barium (green), iron (yellow), etc. Note that these AMs are not your usual pyrotechnic stars; any mass entering the atmosphere at a velocity of about 10 kilometerssecond has potential energy of about 6 x 10^4 joulesgram; the decomposition of TNT releases energy of about 4 x 10^3 joulesgram. No chemical reactions needed; atmospheric friction will provide all necessary energy.

The AMs would need to have special shapes. Spheres are not a good idea, especially if high melting point materials like iron are used; there have been cases of meteors in the few-gram range making it all the way to the ground. The ideal shape would be one which stayed incandescent for as long as possible, but was guaranteed to be down to a fraction of a gram at a safe altitude of 15 kilometers or so.

AM shape and construction may need to be special to maintain the ablation temperature in a good range for color production.

Some kind of lattice sounds good. It might also be interesting to make the AMs with aerodynamically active shapes that would perform various maneuvers as they fell.

Like noise? Let larger mass AMs descend below 40 kilometers and you get a sonic boom. I'm not sure this is a good idea; hard to make sure that these large AMs don't make it to the ground, and the neighbors might complain.

This scheme fits the current international political climate rather well. Both we and the Russians have agreed to destroy lots of ballistic missiles of various types. What better way to verify destruction than this, putting on beautiful displays for the citizens who paid for the missiles.

Feeling paranoid? Let us make and install the AM payloads in the Russian missiles, and let them do the same for ours.

AMs could even be a money-making proposition. I would imagine that the producers of films, music videos, rock concerts, and national holiday displays would pay a lot for special effects on this large a scale.

There are many thousands of missiles good for AM use in the world; we should be able to provide lots of events with AM displays for many years.


Now, before we begin, there are some things I would like to go over with you.

  1. Safety

I don't just preach about safety shit because I don't want any lawsuits, It often helps in the outcome of your "project". Ifwhen you try to build these, always go about them in a scientific manner, basically trying the mixes out in a vary small amount, staying a safe distance away, and tinkering with it till you have gained the desired effect. Stuff like "Yah dood lets put a bunch in here and throw it at that old guys trash can" Will end up fucking you in the ass in the long run. Wear proper attire for these duties, or find a nice area in which you can leg it the fuck behind a little knoll or large peice of cement when your project goes off. Always have an escape route. (Preferrably the woods, if you know the area well.)This has saved me from police several times. Now that I'm done ranting about this, let us get started.


CAR BOMB

Materials:


Potassium permanganate (found at sears)
  • Pill bottles (ones that are the same size and will fit into a hole in a gas tank.)
    Ziploc Bags if you don't have a pill bottle
    water and food coloring
    Stop watch or a way of telling time in seconds
    writing utensil and paper

    Procedure:

    The car bomb is actually a tweeked version of the "draino bomb". I tried this one myself (with draino liquid, they didn't have the powder at wal-mart.) and when I tested the gasoline and the draino liquid nothing happened, except the mixture turned yellow. Now back to the potassium permanganate. This substance is usually in the form of small black balls, but it could come in powder too. I'm not sure whether or not this stuff will ignite due to friction, but I wouldn't recommend grinding up the stuff unless you're using glass    plasticwood utensils to do so. Anyways. Get a glass bowl, or some sort of container with an open end that gasoline will not eat away, and fill it with gasoline enough so that one of the pill bottles will be completely submerged. Here's where you bust out your watch. Fill one of the pill bottles with water (food coloring in it), and seal it. Since water is more dense than gas the pill bottle should sink to the bottom with heavily colored water. If you don't have any pill bottles, you just use the ziplocs as a substitute. With these you have to be cautious... I always cut 30s off of my time anyway but you can make your getaway time relatively long with this method, as long as you can still fit your bags into a tank (one inside another). Watch your clock, and as soon as a little bit of colored water leaks out, stop your watch and record the time. That's how much time you have to leg it the fuck out of the vicinity when you decide to blow up this muffucka's car. Now that you have that out of the way, you can now take your other pill bottle, and fill it with the permanganate. MAKE SURE to rinse and dry off the pill bottle incase some of the potassium residue got on it. Now, wait till it's dark outside, dress in some dark clothes but nothing to conspicuous, and go for a stroll. Pop it in your enemies gas tank and start your timer.


    POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE AND GASOLINE PIPE BOMB

    This is yet another little bit of tweekage from the draino ideas. A pipe bomb, which can be detonated exactly like the last one, or by concussion (Slamming the sonofabitch on something and huckin' it. ETA to detonation is roughly 1 minute this way.)

    MATERIALS:


    baby food jar OR pill bottle
    Gasoline
    Potassium permanganate
    Pipe, with caps (has to be wide enough in diameter for the baby food jar or the pill bottle to fit)
    Shrapnel (If you're looking to cause some serious HaVoK or to be stupid and kill someone)

    Much like last time, you do your tests unless you're doing the baby food jar, which you can still do a test by taking a table spoon or so of the permanganate and a tablespoon of the gas and mixing them, staying a respective distance away and timing it till it begins to fire up like a pothead at 4:20.

    Glass baby food jar: Take your pipe, cap one end. put some of your shrapnel in it.

    GENTLY slide your baby food jar down the tube (holding it sideways and using an object to push it in works fine.) Fill the tube up with gas. If you want more shrap, take some 100MPH tape and tape a bunch of nails to it n shit.. Now, to get this little fucker to blow, you simply whack it onto a hard object and huck it at your target, followed by a quick getaway. About a minute later (Or if you weren't stupid, and timed it) You'll hear the results.

    Pill bottle: Basically the same method, but you pre-tape your goodies to the outside first, and be ready to cap that sumbitch as soon as you put the pill bottle into the pipe. Again, huck it at your target or place it, and leg it the fuck out. Again, if you weren't a dumbass and timed it, you should have a relative sense of when it should blow. You'll hear the results and    or see and hear them at the designated time.


    UNTESTED

    Remote detonation bomb with walkie talkies

    Materials:


    Car battery
    walkie talkie set
    Pipe w/ caps
    gun powder or any other substance that will rapidly oxidize while under pressure
    Power drill
    copper wire, your mom's lamp cord (5-10ft would be fine, and you want wire that is fine, it gets hot faster causing your bomb to blow.)

    Here's where the fun begins

    I really don't want to go indepth with circuit boards and shit, so I'll just tell you the easy way to tell where the spark comes from. Pop open one of your walkie talkies. There should be two wires leading to your speaker. Where those two wires go into the little green thing, put your fingers on it. Turn on both walkie talkies and press the button on the one you aren't touching your fingers to and begin to talk. Your talk should be interrupted by a sharp "MOTHERFUCKER!" or some other obscenity because you just shocked yourself. If this doesn't shock you, keep doing that method till you find a part that does.

    Now, if your little walkie talkie isn't a cheap sonofabitch, with a light, digital screen, shit like that.. I dunno if it WONT fry from the extreme voltage from the car battery. Get a ghetto stile one that is two-way but still has a nice range >=^). Now here's what you do: Rip open the back of your walkie talkie where the batteries go in. Take some of your wire, and attach the positive of the car battery to the positive of the little doohicky in the walkie talkie. Do the same with negative... it's like hookin' up a huge ass 9volt or some shit. Secure these wires. Now, while keeping the talkies OFF, go back to the speaker and slice the speaker off from the cords, but don't rip the cords off unless you feel like saudering the new ones on. Take some more wire and hook 1 wire to one of the wires you just cut the speaker from. Do the same with another, on the other cord. Now, take a small light bulb and tape the two wires to it. Put a peice of tape over the LED (little light on the front of the walkie talkie, if it has it) incase it decides it wants to explode. Turn the frankensteined walkie talkie ON.

    Back away.

    Turn the other walkie talkie on.

    Watch the lightbulb, and press the button on your walkie talkie as if you were about to talk to the person on the other line. If the light blinks, explodes, or gets any other electrical signal, SUCCESS! Now, I'm pretty sure the circuit board is fried, and you might wanna get another cheap ass pair of walkie talkies.


    THE BOMB PART OF THE WALKIE TALKIE BOMB

    Take a pipe, with caps.

    Take a small drill bit, a drill, and a GLASS OF WATER.

    Take the caps, and drill holes through them, occasionally pouring water on the cap and bit so they don't get hot and break. ALWAYS DO THIS FIRST!!!!! If you're fuckin' stupid as shit, you'll do this while there's gunpowder or some shit inside of the pipe and you will blow yourself up. Now, remember those two wires you used to hook up to the light bulb? You stick one through one hole of the cap, one through the other (so when you cap the shit the wires will touch eachother. You want to connect the wires in the middle.). You want the parts of the wires that are inside the tube to be STRIPPED, so they'll get hot and light the shit faster. DO NOT CONNECT THE WIRES TO THE WALKIE TALKIE YET. -|--------|- "|" represents the caps. "-" represents the wire. This is what the wire should look like when it's inside of the tube and it's capped. Cap one end, you could throw some toilet paper down in the pipe near the hole so none of the powder leaks out. Fill it up with powder, AS FULL AS YOU CAN GET IT WITHOUT GRINDING IT. usually filling it, and tapping the outside of the pipe will make it settle down a bit. Do this till it wont settle anymore. Put the other cap on. Now, you take the wires sticking on the outside of your bomb and hook them up to the wires where the speaker used to be on your walkie talkie. hook up the battery to the walkie talkie. Now you TAPE the bomb to the battery. You can also tape shrapnel to it for even more destructiveness. You take this delicate package to your target destination, AT NIGHT, and go hide somewhere. You could either wait till the next day, or blow it up by remote right there. This bomb, theoretically, will blow up, causing sulfuric acid to fly in every direction, along with any other types of high velocity goodies you rigged to it. I haven't tested this theory, but I'm 90% sure it will work. I've been typin on this bitch for about an hour now... I might post some other ideas later on. Hope you have fun with these. If you do actually test this theory, send me the results to my E-mail address.

    Lethal Industries





    1995

    Listen up, this shit is powerful, dangerous, and highly illegal. If you don't have any sort of background in chemistry, you'll probably kill yourself. To detonate it, you need an explosion, such as the one produced by mercury fulminate. For now just remember, if you can't understand any part of this, then DON'T FUCK WITH IT!!

    Preliminaries:

    Let's cut through the shit and get down to what you really want to know.
    1. C-1 is 150% more powerfull than T.N.T.
    2. It's 10% more powerfull than C-4
    3. It expands at a rate of 8850 meters per second when compressed into a cube with a density of 1.55 gcubic cm.

    Materials

    Chemicals:
    Hexamine (compressed fuel tablets found in sporting goods stores)
  • grams
    Concentrated Nitric Acid
  • mls
    Distilled Water
    Table Salt
    Ice
    Ammonium Nitrate(optional)


    Equipment:
  • ml beaker
    glass stirring rod
    funnel and filter paper
    ice bath container
    centigrade thermometer
    blue litmus paper

    PROCEDURE
    1. Place the beaker in the ice bath, and carefully pour 550 mls of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
    1. When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, carefully begin adding small amounts of the crushed fuel tablets, that you previously ground into a fine powder. The temp will rise, and must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or you'll blow your fucking head off!! Stir.
    1. Drop the temp to below zero, either by adding salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new one, or by adding ammonium nitrate to the old ice bath. Continue stirring for at least 20 minutes, while keeping the temp below zero.
    1. Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake, stir, and allow to melt. Once melted, filter out the crystals and dispose of the corrosive liquid( say in some poor cat's water dish)
    1. Place the crystals into 12 a litre of boiling water, filter out the crystals, and test them for acidity with the litmus paper. Repeat step 5 until the litmus paper doesn't change color anymore, meaning you have boiled off all of the excess acid.
    1. To make the plasticizer, mix by weight:
    2. 8% R.D.X.( the crystals)
    3. 4% mineral oil
    4. 6% lecithin

    I've also heard that vaseline and wax in a 5 to 1 ratio work well.



    Regarding C-1 Explosives

    After spending 12 years in the Army as an explosives instructor in an EODEngineer unit, I regret to tell you that your claims of this explosive being 150 times more powerful than TNT and 10% more powerful than C4 are seriously in error.

    First off, the designation C1....the composition of this series of compounds has little effect in regards to explosive mixture(s), it pertains to the amount of pliable plastizer that will function in all types of weather from extreme cold to searing hot.

    That's why the earlier designation of C1,C2,C3 don't exist anymore...C4 is based on an ethylene Glycol type binder much like the all temperature antifreeze for your car.

    It was found to be the perfect balance of binder to explosive for all applications.

    Next, if it was more powerful than C4 by 10% than it would only be 54% more powerful than TNT. This can be substaniated by the known RE factor of C4 being 1.34 with an RDX base and TNT's RE being 1.00...check any 5-25 Demolitions manual.






    A diversion bomb isnt actually a bomb at all but it can be used for diversions. Take a small plastic water bottle (the one used here is 16.9 FL OZ) and take the cap off. Fill the bottom of the bottle with about 1 teaspoon of gunpowder. Take the cap and drill a very small hole in the top of it. You can also heat up a sewing needle and use it to melt a hole through the cap. The hole should be large enough to accommodate for a 3-inch long fuse (drill the hole according to your own estimated diameter of the fuse). Make sure the fuse fits tightly into the cap. Screw the cap back onto the bottle. The fuse should be hanging out of the cap at about 1    2 inches on each side. Ignite the fuse, throw the bottle and run. When the bottle explodes the sound it creates can be heard for a great distance (about 7 neighborhood blocks in diameter).

    Other uses for this Water Bottle Bomb: The bottleneck can be put into a parking cone (the orange ones you see lying around a school campus) top by inserting it through the bottom. The parking cone acts as a platform for the bottle and when ignited the pressure that is created will send the parking cone flying into the air at a height of about 25 feet high.

    Also, instead of using a plastic bottle, you can use a glass bottle. It wont cause such a loud sound, but it will send glass hurling into the air and fast speeds.




    Chlorine Bombs Gone Wrong
    by Andrew D.



    Its 4 o'clock on a nice April day in Las Vegas, Nevada there are 4 people in my car and we have nothing to do. An idea came up about these people that we always fuck with <-(long story why) that lives in my girlfriends neighborhood. So I thought it would be a good idea because I would get to see my girl and entertain some bored people. On the way to my girlfriends house we decide to use a chlorine bomb and a cone for a "blast".

    We get to the peoples' house and my friend gets out of my car with the cone and the bomb. He prepares the materials outside of the car but little did we know there was a family down the street two or three houses was standing outside fiddle faddleing around. While the explosive's reactants were mixing, my friend discontinues using his brain and accidentally runs around to the wrong side of my car (I don't know how this happened he is just an idiot). By the time he runs a full lap around my car the car the bomb went off. The cone went blasting at least 8 feet in the air and the family stood with their mouths open. At this time I'm guessing those bitches down the street got my licence plate number. We drove away laughing hysterically not knowing what was going to happen and continued our lives normally.

    The next day came and my girl friend called me up in the middle of class telling me that her math teacher, that I sold my last house to, got a visit from the police and the police were asking for me. I guess I forgot to register my car for my new house. Her math teacher being the dumbfuck he is told the police where my girlfriend lives. (she only lives a couple blocks down) So you can guess where the police were when she came home. She gave me away, she gave in to the police bullshit threats.

    The police arrive at my home at 3:00 a.m. Boy were my parents glad to see them. I was awoken by a police man grabbing me and flipping me and putting me in cuffs. I was brought to the police station and put into the holding tank after a cavity search. 2 hours later I was taken out of the holding tank. They then tell me my court date and what crimes I am affiliated with. These include but are not limited to; terrorism, 2 counts of property damage (the cone and the car were damaged), endangerment of the public, larson (because of the god damn government owned cone), and a noise disturbance (because of the blast noise, what bitches) and the cops said if I was uncooperative with they would add more. So now I am sitting here thinking about how much shit I have to deal with, with my parents (they are selling my car) and how much I am gonna have to fucking pay the government for a little fun. Some shit.

    Moral of the Story: Think Before You Blast



    Composition C-4

    This is the standard-issue plastic explosive used by the U.S. military. I recieved most of my early demo training in the army, which spoiled me for C-4. It retains its moldability over a wider range of temperatures, doesn't exude liquid (as does Semtex), and is pound-for-pound the most powerful explosive in common use. Its power, stability, and versatility are un- equalled. C-4 is in such demand and so well thought of that Muammar al- Quaddafi paid Edwin Wilson an exorbitant sum for 20 tons, even though he could get all of the Semtex he wanted on the open market for a much-lower price.

    With a few simple modifications, C-4 becomes even more versatile. If you mix 7 fluid ounces of mineral oil with a 1 14 pound bar, you get an exc- ellent paste explosive, roughly equivalent in power to TNT, and capable of sticking to almost anything. Sealed inside flat plastic bags, this mix can secreted in any number of useful spots (softsided luggage, for instance). One note of caution should be mentioned. With C-4 or any plastic explo- sive, the user should avoid mashing it when loading it into special devices or preparing charges. The sectional density of an explosive has a direct bearing on its power and velocity. The explosive packages are press-loaded to their optimum density for highest performance. This it not to say that they will not explode when used in this manner, but they will not utilize their full explosive potential.

    Sometimes commercial number 8 blasting caps will not detonate C-4, which was formulated for use with the more powerful J-2 military caps. In this case, two number 8s can be taped together, or some of its RDX can be extr- acted to use as a booster. To do this, a small lump (about 1 ounce) of C-4 is put into a cup of gasoline. The lump can be broken apart with a fork. Let it sit for an hour or so. The RDX should have separated from the plastic, which is soluble in gasoline, to form a white powder at the bottom of the container. This residue is filtered out of the gasoline and washed on the filter with a little more gas. Letting it sit overnight will evaporate any residual gas. Find a tube that will snugly fit the balsting cap and hammer one end closed. One or two grams of the RDX is pressed into the bottom of the tube, and the blasting cap is inserted and taped into place.





    Detailed Description of the Synthesis of Acetone Peroxide


    Acetone peroxide is one of the few explosives that can be quite easily made from materials that can be readily bought with no questions asked. For this reason, many young fools who know little about the chemistry of the reaction have attempted making it. With little knowledge on the topic, the chances of injury or death become much, much, higher. This is why I decided to make a detailed article going over the often overlooked fact of acetone peroxide. Hopefully this will help clear up the mistakes often found on inaccurate textfiles that can be found using a simple search engine, and provide an enjoyable experience with much less danger than usual.

    NOTE: The information provided from this point on is strictly for informational purposes only. The production and use of acetone peroxide is illegal as well as very dangerous. I, the author, take no responsibility for how this information is used.

    Acetone peroxide appears as a white powder to the unobservant eye. However, it is actually a crystalline compound. Acetone peroxide (or AP, as it will hereby be referred to as) can be ignited with a flame or spark, and will then deflagrate at an explosive rate. This deflagration produces hot gasses that are capable of bursting relatively strong containers, which makes it apparently a good explosive for firecrackers.

    AP can also be detonated with a blasting cap. If a sufficient shockwave is sent through it (the shockwave needn"t be very powerful), the AP will detonate and therefore decompose at a significantly faster rate than when deflagration occurs. What this basically means is that, when detonated by a blasting cap, AP will explode much more powerfully.

    The one main downfall of AP is its sensitivity. It is one the most sensitive explosives commonly manufactured. This downfall is the very reason that makes AP so dangerous, and is why so many of the 'fools' that attempted making it have been badly injured, or even killed. A small amount of AP will detonate if tapped with a hammer on a hard surface. If stepped on it will go off under the weight of a human. The truth of the matter is, AP is no toy. It should be taken seriously before manufacture, during manufacture, and after manufacture.


    Getting the Materials

    There are three chemicals needed to make acetone peroxide. If searched for, one can often find them at common stores, at least in the US.


    Hydrogen Peroxide H2O2

    This is the easiest chemical to find that is needed in the AP reaction. If 27 or 30% hydrogen peroxide can be found, then it will produce higher yields when used. However, a change in the percentage will mean a change in the ratio, or amount used. The ratio involved uses 3% hydrogen peroxide, because of its availability. 3% hydrogen peroxide can be easily bought at any drug store, pharmacy, or local convenient store. It can be found in the medical aisle at Jewel. It"s used as an antiseptic for cleaning wounds. It typically sells for less than a buck a bottle, and one bottle is more than enough for two of the reactions described here. Remember, if you come across a different strength peroxide, it should only be used if you are good enough in chemistry to do the math and figure out which change in ratio will be correct.


    Acetone CH3COCH3

    Acetone is a colorless, volatile, extremely flammable liquid ketone. It is often used as an organic solvent, and is therefore available as a paint thinner. If you go to the paint section in your local hardware store, acetone can often be found in a metal container labeled 'Acetone'. It is important to check the container to make sure that the contents are 100% pure acetone, since impurities can be horrible for the reaction. Acetone is the main ingredient in nail polish remover, but it"s not the only ingredient. So nail polish remover has impurities, which makes it a bad substitute for acetone in the AP process.


    Sulfuric Acid H2SO4

    Sulfuric acid will probably be the most difficult-to-find ingredient in the AP process. It is used as a catalyst in the reaction, helping to make acetone and hydrogen peroxide react upon each other to form acetone peroxide, without adding any elements to the reaction. Since it is just a catalyst, other acids, such as strong hydrochloric acid, can be used. However, for optimum results, 85% or stronger sulfuric acid is recommended. Car battery acid is typically around 40% sulfuric acid and often has lead impurities, so it"s not that good for this application. 90% or higher sulfuric acid can usually be found as a drain opener in some hardware stores. 93% H2SO4 can be found under the brand name 'Pro Liquid Drain Opener' and is often available near other drain openers in hardware stores, some as well known as The Home Depot and Menards. Always check the ingredients of chemicals you buy to make sure they"re what you want.

    You will also need a 600ml beaker, or similar glass container. You will also need a graduated cylinder, plastic or glass. It should go up to 50ml, unless you"re not using a beaker with measurements, in which case it should go up to about 100ml. You will definitely need an alcohol or mercury thermometer. It should have a Celsius scale that goes down to less than zero and goes up to more than 40. You will also need something to stir with. If you can get a glass stirring rod, then use that. If you cant get one, use the thermometer to stir. You definitely want something glass or wood, preferably glass. You don"t want plastic or metal, unless its plastic made for stirring chemistry mixtures. You"ll need a funnel, and some filter paper. A coffee filter works great.

    Procedure:


    Pour 500ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide into the beaker
    Put the beaker in an ice bath (a larger bowl filled with ice and cold water, and often salt) until it cools to about 5 degrees Celsius. This might take awhile, but be patient.
    Pour 60ml of acetone into the peroxide, and stir until thoroughly mixed. As a general rule of thumb, when using 3% hydrogen peroxide, you should use 5 times as much peroxide as acetone.
    Measure out 15ml of acid. This is quite a bit, considering the other amounts, but through testing it has been found that more acid will catalyze more ingredients faster, and better. You can use as little as 5 or even 3ml, but to be safe, 15ml works great. Once you"ve got it measured out in the graduated cylinder (that should have a spout), pour the acid very slowly into the mixture, a couple drops at a time, while constantly stirring. The temperature of the mixture should never go above 10 degrees Celsius. If it gets to about 8 or 9 degrees C, stop pouring the acid and keep stirring until the temperature gets back to normal. Keep doing this until all the acid is in the mixture.
    Keep stirring for about 5-10 minutes.
    Then place the beaker (with the ice bath, if possible) into a refrigerator, making sure the temperature is kept below 10 degrees C. Keep it in there for 24-48 hours, the latter preferably. Stir periodically. After about 12-24 hours, you should start to see the mixture turn a kind of milky white, and there should be some shiny crystals on top. There might also be some precipitate on the bottom. Once you believe that precipitation is complete, take the beaker out of the fridge.
    Now take the coffee filter, of filter paper. It should be a circle. Fold it in half once. You should have a semicircle. Now fold it in half again, getting a quarter circle. Look on the curved part of the quarter circle and split apart two of the layers, they should be one of the outside layer, and the one next to that. This should form a cone. Place this cone inside the funnel, and pour the mixture through it, and have the rest of the mixture go into a jar or a glass. Since filter paper and coffee filters are very fine, this could take awhile, but it will get every single particle in there, so it"s worth it. Dispose of the liquid in the jar. Then pour about 400 ml of distilled water over the crystals, to remove all remaining acid.
    Leave these crystals somewhere indoors to air dry overnight.
    The white powder in the filter the next morning should be tricycloacetone peroxide.

    Now, some notes. The mixture must be kept below 10 degrees Celsius. If the crystals form at this temperature, it forms the isomer called tricycloacetone peroxide, which is relatively stable and safe to handle. If the crystals form above this temperature, the dimerric form, called dicycloacetone peroxide. This isomer is much more unstable, and could go off at the touch, making it not safe enough to be considered a practical explosive. As long as the temperature is kept below 10 degrees Celsius, then there is little to worry about. However, if the crystals are stored in a container with high walls for too long, then the AP will volatilize, then reform on the walls of the container. Remember, that when this reformation occurs, the temperature is well above 10 degrees Celsius. So the crystals that formed on the walls are actually the dimerric form, and are very dangerous. They need to be discarded as safely as possible. If the AP needs to be stored, it should be dampened with water, the stored in an airtight container.

    Well, now you have yourself some acetone peroxide. What to do with it, you ask? Fortunately, there are some fun ways to use AP that are conveniently provided here.


    AP Sandwiches

    Take two nickels and put an amount of AP between them. Then take a strip of scotch tape, and stick it around the rims of the nickels; it should hang over on both sides. Take this overhang and push it down, so it sticks to the flat sides of the nickels. At all times, don"t push too hard on the nickels, unless you"re into missing fingers. But they can be pressed together kind of softly, without going off. Once they"re taped, throw the AP sandwich about 40-50 feet in the air, so it lands on concrete. When it hits, the AP will detonate, and a loud boom will be heard. They beat the pants off of snapdragons.


    AP Putty

    AP putty is a very powerful, castable explosive. To make it, mix acetone with double based smokeless powder (available at most gun shops). Mix the two until the smokeless powder dissolves, forming a pasty substance. Once the desired viscosity is achieved, start pouring some acetone peroxide into it. Pour quite a bit in there, so the ratio of paste to AP is about 1:1. Now you can cast this putty into any container, and wait for it to dry. Since acetone is so volatile, it shouldn"t take that long to dry out. Before it dries out, though, be sure to insert some sort of ignition device. A fuse works, as does a solar igniter. Anyway, once dried out and set off, this putty detonates both the AP and the smokeless powder. Seriously, this is God awful powerful stuff, considering its simplicity.


    AP    AN Booster

    If AP is mixed with ammonium nitrate, it can be used as an effective booster charge. The ratio usually used is about 3:1 AP to ammonium nitrate. This mixture is to be confined and detonated with a blasting cap (cool part is, the cap can be AP as well). This booster charge is powerful enough to detonate significant amounts of ANFO. Usually dynamite or TNT is used to detonate ANFO, but this booster is much easier to get by, and works. If a more powerful cap is used, then the ratio of AP to AN can near 1:1, as this will be more powerful, but more difficult to detonate.

    THIS IS YOUR WARNING! Acetone peroxide is a very dangerous explosive meant to be handled by explosives experts. Tampering with it is playing Russian Roulette; there"s a very good chance you"ll get hurt or killed. By taking the proper precautions that were mentioned here, the chances of injury decrease greatly. So, think before you act, and be careful.



    First, set up a normal fishing pole, or line like you normally do. Then on the line, have sinker tied, then below that a small container, like a vile, or film canister. Have it so the opening would be facing down, while holding the line suspended in water. Make sure that the casing does not have any holes, and will not allow any water to enter. Next, have another piece of fishing line connected to the lid, or stopper, depending one what you used. There are endless amounts of ways on how to do this; find your own way, that won't puncture the casing. At the end of the line connected to the stopper, put a normal fishing hook, and bait it with anything that won't move too much. I suggest you don't use minnows. Next, get some sodium and put it into the casing, and put the lid on.

    When you put this in the water, do it SLOWLY. When a fish comes by, he may so much as just toy with the bait, then the top pops off, the sodium falls out, and you have an underwater explosion. The shockwave from the explosion will most likely knock the fish unconscious and cause it to float to the top. Get the net, and bring it in.

    The explosion will produce a small wave at the surface of the water, and you probably won't be able to hear anything at all. This, however, depends on how deep you're fishing.

    If you need to get Sodium, just heat some Table Salt (NaCl). Make sure you do this in an open area, and try not to stand near it. Doing this not only produces Sodium, but also Chlorine gas, which will kill you if you breathe in enough of it.




    Black smoke screen--
    1. Magnesium powder 19
      Hexachloroethane 60
      Naphthalene 21
    1. Magnesium powder 20
      Hexachloroethane 60
      Naphthalene 20
    1. Hexachloroethane 55.8
      Alpha naphol 14
      Athracene 4.6
      Aluminum powder 9.3
      Smokless powder 14
      Naphthalene 2.3
    1. Black powder FFF 50
      Potassium nitrate 10
      Coal tar 20
      Powdered charcoal 15
      Paraffin 5

    White smoke screen--
    1. Potassium chlorate 44
      Sulfur flour 15
      Zinc dust 40
      Sodium bicarbonate 1
    1. Zinc dust 28
      Zinc oxide 22
      Hexachloroethane 50
    1. Zinc dust 66.67
      Hexachloroethane 33.33

    Yellow smoke screen--
    1. Potassium chlorate 25
      Paranitraniline 50
      Lactrose 25
      Powdered sugar 20
    1. Potassium chlorate 30
      Naphtalene azodimethyl 20
      aniline 50
    1. Potassium chlorate naphthalene 21.4
      Azodimethyl aniline 2.7
      Auramine 38
      Sodium bicarbonate 28.5
      Sulfur flour 9.4

    Green smoke screen--
    1. Potassium nitrate 20
      Red arsenic 20
      Sulfur flour 20
      Antimony sulfide 20
      Black powder FFF 20

    Red smoke screen--
    1. Potassium chlorate 26
      Diethyaminorosindone 48
      Powdered sugar 26
    1. Potassium chlorate 27.4
      Methylaminoanthraquinone 42.5
      Sodium bicarbonate 19.5
      Sulfur flour 10.6
    1. Potassium perchlorate 25
      Antimony sulfide 20
      Rhodamine red 50
      Dextrin 5




    Gun Cotton

    If only a small quantity is required---Mix 4 14 oz of pure dry Potassium Nitrate with 30 fl.dr of Sulphuric acid specific gravity 1.845 ish and stir into this mixture 120 grms of pure cotton. (The adding of Potassium Nitrate straight to the Sulphuric Acid saves you having to buy the Nitric Acid, which can be a bit of a pain sometimes).

    As soon as saturation is complete,in about a minute,throw the cotton into a large container of water under the tap and leave the tap on, so that all the acid is washed out...THAT MEANS ALL..Test the water with Litmus paper to be sure.If the cotton is left slightly acidic it will explode at some later date; all by itself wouldn't that be fun.

    Then squeeze it out into a towel till it feels quite dry and then finally dry it at about 180F.

    Gun-Cotton differs widely from Gun-Powder in its properties requiring a much lower temperature for its ignition about 136F G-P about 250F Gun-Cotton burns so fast in the open that you could put some on your hand and light it, you wouldn't feel a thing.

    It needs to be confined in a strong case if your fuse is a normal Black-Powder one but if you use a detonator ie    a Fulminate it will explode on its own.

    Rapid as this combustion is, however, it occupies an appeciable time, as may be seen by igniting a train of loose gun-cotton, which takes several seconds to burn a few feet,giving at the same time a large flame. If gun-cotton be confined at the moment of ignition this flame is forced back into the mass.and by rapidly heating it brings it to the point at which combustion passes into explosion. Prior to 1868 it was always confined in strong cases, but in that year someone discovered that when a detonating fuse was exploded in contact with compressed gun-cotton,the unconfined mass at once exploded with ENORMOUS violence,and this discovery opened up an entirly new ballgame.

    The products of the explosion are :

    Carbon Dioxide
    Carbon Monoxide
    Hydrogen
    Nitrogen
    Methane

    It can be detonated buy hitting with a hammer on an anvil but only the portion under the hammer will explode with a loud report.

    To recap,do make sure that all the acid is washed out..




    How to Make 3.5" Floppy Disk Bombs



    Alright, first off this article is to be used only for informational purposes only, don't actually do this... yadda yadda yadda. You know the drill.

    Anyway, you only need a few materials, and they are as follows:

    1. 3.5" floppy disk
      A few matchbooks with RED or WHITE strike powder ONLY!! Blue will not work!!
      Nail polish overcoat
      small fingernail file

    Alright, it is very easy to make these, so if you fuck it up, you're a retard. Alright, first step is to file all the match powder off all the matches and collect a decent amount of it in a pile.

    Second, open up the floppy disk and remove the two cloth guards (if you've never opened a floppy disk before, you'll know when you open it).

    Take the nail polish and liberally apply it to the magnetic disk. As you're applying the nail polish, take the powder and sprinkle it all around on the polish. The polish will bunch up on the disk, hence why you should apply liberally. Put the disk back together (getting the spring back in place can be a bitch). Label it whatever, and give it to your victim telling them there is something they should see, or just break into their house and put it in the comp yourself. When they go to access "my computer", the computer will attempt to read the disk, causing a spark, and thus... an explosion.

    By the way, the explosion usually stays inside the computer itself, so you have slight chance of it hurting your victim. Only his computer.





    Take table salt and heat it in a metal dish until it melts. Than run electricity through it. Don't breathe the gas. It's pure clorine and you will die.

    Pure sodium explodes in water so have fun. It also burns through shit. Really good for school, cars, or just about anything you can think of.

    By the Best pyros on earth!!!!!!!!!

    Bobby & REko




    R.D.X. MANUFACTURE

    Cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine or cyclonite is manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine (methenamine, hexamine) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It will most likely have to be made. More on this later. The hexamine or methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars for camp stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel bars, they need to be powdered before hand. The hexamine can also be made with common ammonia water (5%) and the commonly available 37% formaldehyde solution. To make this component, place 400 g of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 54 g of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that remain in the pan, place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in an airtight jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place 32 g sulfuric acid (98-100%) and to this add 68 g of potassium nitrate or 58 g of sodium nitrate. Gently heating this retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. This gas is highly poisonous and this step as with all other steps should be done with good ventilation. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by ice water. This should be heated until no more collects in the neck of the retort and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size batch which is determined by the person producing the explosive. Of course the batch can be bigger or smaller but the same ratios should be maintained.

    To make the R.D.X. place 550 g of the nitric acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml beaker in a salted ice bath. 50 g of hexamine (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure that the temperature of the acid does not go above 30 degrees C. This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should be maintained. If the temperature approaches 30 degrees. immediately stop the addition of the hexamine until the temperature drops to an acceptable level. After the addition is complete, continue the stirring and allow the temperature to drop to 0 degrees C and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes continuing the vigorous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid- hexamine mixture into 1000 ml of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid.

    The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water, shaking, and refiltering. These crystals are then placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper. You want them to read between 6 and 7 Ph scale. If there is still acid in these crystals, reboil them in fresh water until the acid is removed and the litmus show them to be between 6 and 7 (the closer to 7 the better). To be safe, these crystals should be stored water wet until ready for use. These crystals are a very high explosive and should be treated as such. This explosive is much more powerful that T.N.T. To use, they will need to be dried for some manufacture processes which are described later. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan, spread them out, and allow the water to evaporate off of them until they are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 gcc at a velocity of 8550 msec.

    Try mixing:

    R.D.X. 78.5%
    Nitroglycerin or Nitroglycol 17.5%
    Petroleum Jelly (vaseline) 4%

    or:

    R.D.X. 80%
    Wax (12 wax, 12 wheel bearing grease) 20%

    WARNING! Skin contact should be avoided with the final products.

    PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH

    This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds used by French, German and some other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur, sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given just as an expedient method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate, stove etc.), a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge).

    When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g per 100 ml distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called fractional crystallization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.

    Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction and sulfursulfidesphosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3 gcc) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in shaped charge applications due to it's relatively low detonation velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the sake of charge computation. If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made, it is put into the manufacture process in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the wax-vaseline mixture. This explosive is powerful and hair raising. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases it's blast effect. Detonation velocity 3300 msec.

    PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM SWIMMING POOL CHLORINATING COMPOUND (H.T.H.)

    This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypo-chlorate CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chlorate (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystallization of the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or equivalent (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach is also a dissociation reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enameled steel container place 1200 g H.T.H. and 220 g potassium chloride or 159 g sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride was used, potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid after filtration) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved. These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75 degree C). These crystals are ground to a very fine powder (400 mesh). If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystallization is much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a plastique bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION, AND SHOCK, AND THESE BETTER BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive, it will have a tendency to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity. This explosive is composed of the following:

    potassium or sodium chlorate 90%
    vaseline 10%

    The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of 2-3% aluminum powder substituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. The addition of this aluminum will give this explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this explosive is approximately 3200 msec for the potassium salt and 2900 msec for the sodium salt based explosive.

    PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM TABLE SALT

    This explosive is perhaps the most easily manufactured of the chlorate based explosives. Sodium chlorate is the product because rock salt is the major starting ingredient. This process would work equally as well if potassium chloride were used instead of the sodium chloride (rock salt). The sodium chlorate is the salt I will cover due to the relatively simple acquisition of the main ingredient. The resulting explosive made from this process would serve as a good cheap blasting explosive and will compare favorably with 30% straight dynamite in power and blasting efficiency. This explosive can be considered the same as 30% straight dynamite in all charge computation. These explosives and similar compositions were used to some extent in WWI by European forces engaged in that conflict. It was used as a grenade and land mine filler. It's only drawback is it's hygroscopic nature (tendency to absorb atmospheric moisture). These explosives also have a relatively critical loading density. They should be used at a loading density of 1.3 gcc. If this density is not maintained, unreliable or incomplete detonation will take place. These short comings are easily over come by coating the finished explosive products with molten wax and loading this explosive to the proper density. This explosive is not good for shaped charge use due to it's low detonation rate (2900 msec). The major part of the manufacture of this explosive from rock salt is the cell reaction where D.C. current changes the sodium chloride to chlorate by adding oxygen by electrolysis of a saturated brine solution. The reaction takes place as follows:

    NaCl + 3H2O ----> NaClO3 + 3H2

    In this reaction the sodium chloride (NaCl) takes the waters' oxygen and releases its hydrogen as a gas. This explosive gas must be vented away as sparks or open flame may very well cause a tremendous explosion. This type of process or reaction is called a 'cell' reaction. The cell should be constructed of concrete or stainless steel. I won't give any definite sizes on the cell's construction because the size is relative to the power source. This cell would have to be large enough to allow the brine to circulate throughout the cell to insure as uniform a temperature as possible.

    The speed of the reaction depends on two variables. Current density is a very important factor in the speed of the reaction. The advantages of high current densities are a faster and more efficient reaction. The disadvantages are that cooling is needed to carry away excess heat and the more powerful power sources are very expensive. For small operations, a battery charger can be used (automotive). This is the example I will use to explain the cell's setup and operation (10 amp 12 volt). The current density at the anode (+) and cathode (-) are critical. This density should be 50 amps per square foot at the cathode and 30 amps per square foot at the anode. For a 10 amp battery charger power source this would figure out to be 5 516" by 5 516" for the cathode. The anode would be 6 1516" by 6 516". The anode is made of graphite or pressed charcoal and the cathode is made of steel plate (14").

    These would need to be spaced relatively close together. This spacing is done with some type of nonconducting material such as glass rods. This spacing can be used to control the temperature to some extent. The closer together they are, the higher the temperature. These can be placed either horizontally or vertically although vertical placement of the anode and cathode would probably be the ideal set up as it would allow the hydrogen to escape more readily. The anode would be placed at the bottom if placed horizontally in the cell so that the chlorine released could readily mix with the sodium hydroxide formed at the cathode above it. As the current passes through, the cell chlorine is released at the anode and mixes with the sodium hydroxide formed at the cathode. Hydrogen is released at the cathode which should bubble out of the brine. This gas is explosive when mixed with air and proper precautions should be taken. PROPER VENTILATION MUST BE USED WITH THIS OPERATION TO AVOID EXPLOSION.

    Temperature control is left up to the builder of the cell. The temperature of the cell should be maintained at 56 degrees C during the reaction. This can be done by the circulation of water though the cell in pipes. But the easiest way would be to get an adjustable thermostatic switch adjusted to shut the power source off until the cell cools off. This temperature range could be from 59 degree shut off to a 53 degree start up. An hour meter would be used on the power source to measure the amount of time the current passes through the cell. If the water cooling coil design appeals to the manufacturer and an easily obtained cheap source of cool or cold water is available, this would be the quickest design to use. Again a thermostatic type arrangement would be used to meter the cold cooling water through the cell. The cooling coils would best be made of stainless steel to overcome the corrosiveness of the salts although this is not entirely necessary. A thermostatic valve would be set to open when the brine electrolyte was heated above approximately 58 degrees C. Again this would be the best and most efficient method and the waste heat could be used relatively easily.

    To run the cell, after the cell has been constructed and the concrete has been sealed and has set and cured for several weeks, is very simple. First to seal the concrete I suggest Cactus Paint's C P 200 series, two component epoxy paint, or an equivalent product. To fill the cell place 454 G sodium chloride in the cell (rock salt is excellent here). Place four liters of distilled water into the cell with the salt. The liquid should cover the anode and the cathode completely with room to spare. Remember that some of the water will be used in the reaction. Thirty three grams of muriatic acid (hydrochloric), which should be available at swimming pool supply stores or hardware stores, is then added to the liquid in the cell. Be careful when handling ANY acid!!! Then seven grams of sodium dichromate and nine grams of barium chloride is added. The cell is then ready to run if the plates are connected to their respective cables. These cables are best made of stainless steel (the most corrosion resistant available). The power supply is then hooked up and the cell is in operation. The power is best hooked up remotely to lessen the chance of explosion. Any time the cell runs it will be making hydrogen gas. THIS GAS IS EXPLOSIVE WHEN MIXED WITH AIR AND ALL SPARKS, FLAME, AND ANY SOURCE OF IGNITION SHOULD BE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE CELL AND THIS CELL SHOULD ONLY BE RUN WITH VERY GOOD VENTILATION. The steel plate cathode should be hooked to the negative side of the power source and the anode hooked to the positive side. Again these are hooked to the power supply via stainless steel cables. This cell is then run at the proper temperature until 1800 amp hours pass through (amount per pound of sodium chloride) the electrolyte. The liquid in the cell is then removed and placed in an enameled steel container and boiled until crystals form on liquid. It is cooled and filtered, the crystals collected being saved. This is done twice and the remaining liquid saved for the next cell run. The process will become easier as each run is made. It is a good idea to keep records on yields and varying methods to find out exactly the best process and yield. To purify these crystals place 200 grams in 100 ml distilled water. Boil the solution until crystals are seen on the surface. Let cool and filter as before. Save this liquid for the next cell run. These purified crystals are placed in a pyrex dish and placed in the oven at 50 degrees C for two hours to drive off all remaining water.

    The explosive is ready to be made. The crystals or sodium chlorate is ground to a powder of face powder consistency. Ninety grams of this sodium chlorate are kneaded with 10 grams of vaseline until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive is sensitive to shock, friction, and heat. These should be avoided at all cost. This explosive works best at a loading density of 1.3-1.4 G    cc. If this explosive is not used at this density the detonation velocity will be low and detonation will be incomplete. To load to a known density measure the volume of the container in which the explosive is to be loaded. This can be done by pouring water out of a graduated cylinder until the container is filled. The total number of ml will equal the cc's of the container. Multiply this number times 1.3 and load that much explosive (in grams of course) into the container after the container has been dried of all water. This procedure should be used with all chlorate explosives (plastique explosive from bleach, plastique explosive from H.T.H.). This is a good explosive that is cheap and relatively powerful.

    PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE FROM ASPIRIN

    This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restricts it's use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.

    This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this one easily in approximately 3 hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).

    This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosives and are super sensitive. They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid. To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best and buffered brands should be avoided. Powder the tablets to a fine consistency. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder, place this powder in warm methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again, wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a shallow pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.

    Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml of sulfuric acid (98%, specific gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 degrees F and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid, take the beaker that you've done this dissolving in (600 ml) out of the oil bath.

    This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any procedure in this book with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding 58 g of sodium nitrate or 77 g potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. (Caution: I repeat, this red gas nitrogen trioxide should be avoided. Very small amounts of this gas are highly poisonous. Avoid breathing vapors if you value your life!). The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker.

    When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added, the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30-40 degrees C). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. Brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very, pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and placed in an oil bath and heated to 80 degrees C and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% baseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured onto the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plasticity range of 0- 40 degrees C. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 msec. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as is C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is VERY toxic and should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK. THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE, STORAGE IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND EXPLOSIVE SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. AVOID CONTACT WITH ALL METALS EXCEPT ALUMINUM AND TIN!!!

    NITRO-GELATIN PLASTIQUE EXPLOSIVE

    This explosive would be a good explosive for home type manufacture. It is very powerful and is comparatively stable. It's power can be compared favorably with the R.D.X. based plastique explosives. The major drawbacks are the problems with headaches in use and it's tendency to become insensitive to a blasting cap with age. It is a nitroglycerin based explosive and therefore the manufacturer would need to be familiar with the handling of nitroglycerin and know the safety procedures associated with it's handling. All of the explosives' bad points can be overcome through planning ahead and careful handling of it's explosive components. Gloves should be worn at all times during this explosive's manufacture and use. The nitro headache can be avoided by avoiding skin contact and avoidance of the gases formed when the explosive is detonated. This explosive would need to be made up prior to it's use to ensure cap reliability and a high detonation rate. Nitroglycerin is sensitive to shock, flame, and impurities. Any of these can and possibly would cause the premature detonation of the nitroglycerin. This is something to remember as the detonation of nitroglycerin is very impressive. Nitroglycerin, discovered in 1846, is still the most powerful explosive available.

    This explosive is nitroglycerin made plastic by the addition of 7-9% nitrocellose. It is possible to make this nitrocellose but much more practical to buy it. It is available as IMR smokeless powder as sold by Dupont. It should be easily obtained at any area sporting goods store.

    To make this explosive take 8% IMR smokeless powder and mix it with a 50    50 ether-ethyl alcohol and mix until a uniform mixture is obtained. This should be a gummy putty like substance which is properly called a collidon. To this collidon is added 92%, by weight, nitroglycerin. This is very, very carefully mixed by kneading with gloved hands. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol manufacture is covered later. A uniform mixture should be obtained by this kneading. THERE IS DANGER INVOLVED IN THIS STEP AND THIS SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED UNLESS THE MANUFACTURER IS WILLING TO RISK HIS LIFE. This nitro-gelatin is then ready for use. It is not recommended that this explosive be kept for any length of time. It should be used immediately. If this is impossible the explosive can be stored with a relative degree of safety if the temperature is kept in the 0-10 degree C range. This explosive is a good choice if the R.D.X. based plastique's cannot be made. The plastic nature of this explosive will deteriorate with age buy can be made pliable again with the addition of a small percentage of 5050% ether-ethyl alcohol. The detonation velocity of this explosive should be around 7700-7900 msec. This is a good explosive for underwater or U.D.T. type demolition work.

    GELATINE EXPLOSIVES FROM ANTI-FREEZE (diethelene glycol)

    This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin formula except it is supple and pliable between -10 and -20 degrees C. Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerin and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to the nitro-gelatin formula in that it is easier to implement the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that the 5050 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the precipitate is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol. It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatin formula. Like the nitro-gelatin formula, it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this explosive, the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of residual acid being present in the final explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than the nitro-gelatin one:

    Nitro-glycol 75%
    Guncotton (IMR smokeless) 6%
    Potassium nitrate 14%
    Flour (as used in baking) 5%

    In this process the 50    50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the nitroglycol. Remember that this nitroglycol is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate. Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use this explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store in a cool dry place (0-10 degrees C). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 msec. These last two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivalent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the manufacturer has had experience with this type compound.

    The foolish and ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use them. Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing record for safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerin have been made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very few mishaps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy. This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts, DON'T!

    NITROGLYCERIN AND NITROGLYCOL MANUFACTURE

    Glycerin and ethylene glycol are related chemically to one another and are grouped as an alcohol. Both of these oily substances can be nitrated to form a trinitro form. These trinitro forms are both unstable and will explode with tremendous violence and power. Impurities in this form of the substance will also cause the decomposition of the oil. Glycerin is used for soap manufacture and should be easily bought without question. Ethylene glycol is sold as common antifreeze and should be easily acquired. Ethylene glycol renders a better product and would be the item of choice plus the manufacture of plastique explosives from this oily explosive is much easier than from the glycerin nitro form. If ethylene glycol is used it is easier to buy the anhydrous form than to desiccate the water from the antifreeze version of this chemical. The glycerin is also best if bought in it's anhydrous form. The use of the anhydrous form (water free) prevents the watering down of the nitration acids and thus gives a much higher yield of the final product.

    This nitration is achieved by the action of an acid mixture on the glycerin or glycol. This acid is composed of the following percentages:

    Nitric acid (70%) 30%
    Sulfuric acid (98%) 70%
    or
    Nitric acid (100%) 38%
    Sulfuric acid (98%) 62%

    Of course this is by weight as all the percentages I have given. The first acid mixture won't give as good a yield of nitro compound as the second acid mixture. The first nitric acid strength is the only one that is readily available and can be bought readily. The 100% nitric acid is however made readily and is really worth the extra trouble because the yield of nitroglycerin or glycol is so much higher. The actual nitration should be carried out in a glass (pyrex) or enameled steel container. The acids are poured into the container. First the sulfuric and then the nitric very slowly. A great deal of heat is generated by this acid mixing. This container should have been previously placed in a salted ice bath. A thermometer is placed in the acid. A stirring apparatus will need to be rigged up. It should be stirred with a fish tank aerator and pump. This compressed air is the only thing that's really safe to stir the mixture as nitration is taking place. As the acid mixture cools, a weight of glycerin or glycol should be measured out. For glycerin it should equal 1    6 the total weight of the acid mixture. For the glycol it should equal 16 of the total weight of the acid also.

    When the temperature of the acid mixture reaches 0-5 degrees C the addition of the glycerin or glycol is begun after the mixed acids have begun being stirred by the air. Again this agitation of the mixed acids is very important. It will create a gradual rise in temperature and ensures the complete nitration of the glycerin or glycol as it is added. The glycerin-glycol is added in small quantities with a careful eye kept on the temperature of the acids. If at any time the temperature of the acids rises above 25 degrees C, immediately dump the acid-glycol-glycerin into the ice bath. This will prevent the overheating of the nitroglycerin or glycol and it's subsequent explosion. If the temperature rises close to the 25 degree mark, by all means, stop the addition of the glycerin or glycol. Wait until the temperature starts to fall before continuing the addition.

    The glycol will generate more heat during the nitration than will glycerin. The ice bath may need more ice before the reaction is complete, so add when necessary. After the addition of the glycerin or glycol is complete, keep the agitation up and wait for the temperature of the glycerin to fall to 0 degrees C. Stop the agitation of the mixed acids and the nitroglycerin. Let the mixture set. Keep a watch on the temperature just in case. A layer of nitroglycerin or nitroglycol should form on top of the acid mixture. This should be removed with a glass basting syringe.

    Carefully place this with it's own volume of water (distilled) in a beaker. To this add small quantities of sodium bicarbonate to neutralize the acid remaining in the nitro compound. In all steps with this nitro-oil, keep the oil at ten degrees C or colder for the glycol. When the addition of the bicarbonate no longer causes a fizzing (reacting with the excess acid), check the water-nitro with litmus paper (E. Merik). The reading should be around 7. If it is below 6.5, add more bicarbonate until the reading is close to seven or is seven. The nitroglycerin or nitro glycol should be settled to the bottom. It should again be sucked up off the bottom into the clean basting syringe (glass). USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING THIS NITROGLYCERIN OR NITROGLYCOL, BECAUSE THE SLIGHTEST BUMP COULD POSSIBLY EXPLODE IT. WHEN SUCKING THIS OIL OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE WATER DO NOT BUMP THE BOTTOM WITH THE TIP OF THE BASTING SYRINGE! If necessary, suck up some of the water and remove it from the nitroglycerin or glycol using forecepts and small pieces of calcium chloride. The calcium chloride is placed in such a way that it only contacts the residual water in the nitroglycerin or nitroglycol. To make this oil safer to handle, add acetone to the nitroglycerin or glycol in the following proportions:

    25% acetone 75% nitroglycerin or nitroglycol

    This will make the oil less sensitive to shock. This oil, when so mixed will still be sensitive to a #8 blasting cap. Remember that the oil contains this acetone when measuring out the oil to be used in other explosives. It may be mixed in the formulas that call for nitroglycerin or nitroglycol and will usually improve the incorporation of these mixtures. To obtain maximum cap sensitivity the acetone should be allowed to evaporate before use of the finished explosive compound.

    This oil should not be stored if at all possible. But if completely necessary store in a cool or cold, dry, place when it is free of acidity. Acidity in this oil can cause the explosive decomposition of this oil in storage.

    These oils, if handled or their fumes breathed, will cause tremendous headaches and should be avoided at all costs. They are cardiovascular dilators when contacted and extreme care should always be used when handling these explosives.

    As stated earlier, these explosive oils have been produced in large quantities and therefore should be reasonably safe. THIS MANUFACTURE PROCESS SHOULD NEVER BE TRIED BY SOMEONE THAT IS UNFAMILIAR WITH CHEMISTRY, CHEMISTRY LAB PROCEDURES, OR THE EXPLOSIVE COMPOUNDS PRODUCED AND THEIR DANGERS!

    Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol detonate at approximately 6700- 8500 m    sec (depending on the power of the detonators - the stronger . . . the higher the velocity).




    Iodine Crystals


    Iodine crystals are a particularly interesting substance. Iodine is a chemical that is almost required for a good contact explosive. Because it is so easy to find a recipe that includes Iodine crystals, I will not clutter up this file with them.

    To create Iodine crystals, you will need the following:

    Tincture of Iodine (or Iodine Tincture) --> Any amount
    Candle, bunson burner, blowtorch or other flame. GRILL WILL NOT WORK!
    Ice (regular, NOT dry...)
    An all-metal lid (like to a jar) (2)
    Grill (relatively clean, with no charcoal)
    Tongs
    Gloves
    1. Put the bunson burner in the grill and light it. Then place the grill part of the grill in its normal position.
    1. Pour some of the iodine into the first lid and place it on the grill above the flame. THE FLAME SHOULD NOT TOUCH THE LID, but should come within one half to one full inch!!
    1. Put the ice in the other lid and hold it above the lid with the soon to be boiling iodine. This should be done with the tongs while wearing the gloves!!!!
    1. The alcohol should burn off and the iodine should re-cool on the bottom of the lid with the ice in it. Use a jar, Dixie cup, shotgun cartrige, facial orafice, whatever, to collect the crystals from the bottom of the lid. These are the almost 100% pure iodine crystals. Very effective.

    NOTE: Iodine (tincture of) should be bought in smaller quanities, as this is all that is availible from druggrocery stores. It is used to cover up open wounds to expedite the healing process.



    Plastique Explosive from Aspirin


    This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restricts it's use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained. That is why the picric acid may not be available easily.

    This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T (say very close relative of it). But is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first explosive used by militarily and was adopted in 1888 as artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry one can make this one easily in approximately 3 hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified)(headache reliever).

    This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate, which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosives and are super sensitive. They will also cause the detonation of the picric acid. If possible use chemical protected coatings for the containers. The picric acid is so also called trinitrophenol, also picronitric acid.

    To make picric acid, obtain some aspirins. The cheaper brands also work the best. Powder the tablets to a fine consistency. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder, place this powder in warm methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again, wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a shallow Pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a small amount of crystals in the bottom of the Pyrex dish.

    Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml of sulfuric acid (98%, specific gravity 1.8, can know about it with the help of some chemistry books) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. The heating can be done by any of those methods. When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid, yes you have made phenolsulfonic acid. This was the first part.

    In This next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system. Slowly start adding 58 g of sodium nitrate or 77 g potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. This process is called nitration of phenolsulfonic acid. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. (Caution: I repeat, this red gas nitrogen trioxide should be avoided. Very small amounts of this gas are highly poisonous. Avoid breathing vapors, they are harmful). The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker.

    When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added, the mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30-40 degrees C). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice its volume of crushed ice and water. Brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very, pure trinitrophenol. The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a fine powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax and 5% Vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured onto the crystals. The mixing is best done with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plasticity range of 0-40 degrees C. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m    sec.the picric acids are also actively used for military purposes, and it is wide known. Some say it to be some method of preparing explosive from aspirin, as it is some CIA agent"s method. It is toxic to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive as is C-4 or other R.D.X. (h.d.x) based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again this explosive is VERY toxic and should be treated with great care. The above method is an originally known method of producing picric acid from phenolsulfonic acid and about its nitration with alkali nitrates. AVOID HANDLING BARE HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE RETIRE THEM FROM THERE WORK. THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE, STORAGE IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND EXPLOSIVE SHOULD BE MADE UP AS NEEDED. AVOID CONTACT WITH ALL METALS EXCEPT ALUMINUM AND TIN.



    Potassium



    Ingredients Needed:


    White Ash From Wood (Potassium Carbonate)
    Metal Cup
    Two, Thick Wires (at least 5 inches)
  • volt Battery
    Heat Source (Bunsen Burner works best!)
    Torch
    Tongs
    Kerosene

    Step One: Put your white.gray ash into metal cup. Torch for about 15 seconds straight, turning the ash to a white colour.

    Step Two: Turn on your Bunsen burner to full and light. Grab the metal cup and hold directly over flame with tongs.

    Step Three: After the ash has become molten (may be awhile), set down. Quickly shouve two wires into the liquid. Hook the wires up to the 9vlt battery and step back. When no more silvery metal will collect around onf of the wires (or float to the top), unhook battery.

    Step Four: Gather the metal and put into a small container, then cover the fillings in Kerosene. This will prevent any oxidation.

    Step Five: When you want to use your potassium, take a peice out and drop into the school toilet, flush and run. AND I MEAN RUN!




    This alternative of the Chlorine bomb has all of the explosive power of ChlorineAmmonia with a much longer "Running Time". 1) 12 cup Powdered pool chlorine 2) 12 cup pine oil Or Professional PineSol 3) A Mason jar or perhaps a stronger container if more power is needed

    Place powdered chlorine in the jar, then wipe the jar lid and the rim of the jar to remove all powder from these surface to insure that you get a good seal. Next pour in the pine oil and quickly seal the jar as tight as possible. Although this combo also produces deadly gas,the reaction is much slower and allows at least 2 minutes and maybe longer depending on the mixture. I have tested the Chlorine    Ammonia bomb and the reaction is so fast that I would highly recommend avoiding it.



    The bottled hydrogen bomb will not actually destroy anything - it will just make an extremely loud noise; far louder than any shotgun if made correctly.
    1. Get an empty 2 litre lemonade bottle, and two wallscrews.
    1. Make two holes near the bottom of the bottle (about 2" up) and insert the screws so that the threaded end is inside the bottle and a little bit of the headed end is sticking outside the bottle.
    1. Get some silicone sealant and seal the gap between the screws and the bottle; this is to make the incision of the screws water-tight. Give it 12 hours or so to dry.
    1. Make up a salt solution as strong as possible and fill the bottle with the solution to a level just above the two screws. Then, with a small pin, make small hole just above the water level.
    1. Get a car battery charger and attach the two electrodes to the two screws.
    1. Turn the voltage up to it's highest setting and switch it on, making sure that the top of the lemonade bottle is firmly on.
    1. One of the screws will bubble, and the other will corrode leaving a mucky dark green precipitate. The bubbles from the other screw are hydrogen. The small hole above the water level that you made earlier is to stop the pressure building up inside the bottle. See, hydrogen is far lighter than air, meaning that immediately it will float to the top of the bottle - not escape out this hole. The air that it displaces will therefore be pushed downwards and out of this hole.
    1. After 30 minutes, you should have a lemonade bottle full of hydrogen. Put a piece of selotape over the pin hole above the water level. Leave the water inside the bottle! If you try to remove it, air from the surrounding environment with displace it, diluting your pure hydrogen and reducing the explosion.
    1. Put some ear protectors on to protect your ear drums from the noise. Carry the bottle outside. Light a match, unscrew the top and quickly throw the match in before too much hydrogen escapes.
    1. You will hear an extremely large bang - birds from all over your town will fly into the air. You might even get some do-gooder calling the police thinking it's a bomb or a gun. Don't worry about being hurt by the explosion - the force is tiny. At most, you will feel a small gust of wind come out the top of the bottle. I have found that sometimes the match that you drop into the bottle through the neck is sometimes blown straight back out by the explosion, which is fun to watch.
    1. The salty water will still be usable - fix the bottle up to the battery charger again and repeat the process. Quick, easy fun to lighten up boring days.



    Those of you with any knowledge of electrochemistry will know that application of an electric current to water will result in the separation of it's elements, hydrogen and oxygen. Those of you with any knowledge at all will know that hydrogen with oxygen is explosive when ignited.

    This is how the water bomb works. Put two electrodes in water. They must be made of stainless steel or another non reactive metal and be as close together as possible without touching. Turn it on.

    The hydrogen will bubble up from the negative electrode, the oxygen from the positive. So far so good. Now you need a way to collect all this gas. Any waterproof container with a cap or lid will do. Fill it up completely with water. Then all you have to do is find a way to secure it so the opening is underwater, just above the electrodes. When it is full, put the lidcap back on underwater, and take out the container with the cap at the bottom.

    Voila! Bottled explosive gas!

    Half a test tube full of this stuff explodes with the power of a small firecracker. A 3 litre plastic pepsi bottle full of it shattered the windows of the shed I put it in, with a sound that made my ears ring for half an hour. A lot of trial and error goes into perfecting the collection method, but it's easy to create a small industry making these with a little effort.



    Bombs For Beginners


    At the outset of the Vietnam War, tactical aviation pilots were achieving a 750-foot circular error probable (CEP)--the radius from the aim point that half of the bombs dropped will fall within. This number is sufficient for the impact of a tactical nuclear weapon but is far from adequate for conventional weaponry. It took several years for the CEP to be lowered to a manageable 365 feet. [SOURCE] The advantage of guided bombs was revealed when compared with the F-105" s work in Vietnam. The F-105s achieved a circular error probable (CEP) of 447 feet and 5.5 percent direct hits during the end of Rolling Thunder, compared with guided bombs" CEP of 23 feet and 48 percent direct hits during the period of February 1972 through February 1973.

    A bomb is an explosive filler enclosed in a casing. Bombs are generally classified according to the ratio of explosive material to total weight. The principal classes are general-purpose (GP), fragmentation, penetration and cluster bombs.

    Approximately 50-percent of the General Purpose [GP] bomb's weight is explosive materials. These bombs usually weigh between 500 and 2,000 pounds and produce a combination of blast and fragmentation effects. The approximately one-half-inch-thick casing creates a fragmentation effect at the moment of detonation, and the 5O-percent explosive filer causes considerable damage from blast effect. The most common GP bombs are the MK-80 series weapons. General-purpose bombs were the type of ordnance most frequently employed in the Gulf War. According to Iraqi prisoners of war, formations of B-52s dropping general-purpose bombs were one of the most feared aircraft-weapon combinations of the war. GP bombs served as the basic building blocks for many of the other munitions used during the Gulf War.

    Only ten to twenty percent of a fragmentation bomb's weight is explosive material; the remainder include specially scored cases that break into predictably sized pieces. The fragments, which travel at high velocities, are the primary cause of damage.

    Penetration bombs have between twenty-five and thirty percent explosive filler. The casings are designed to penetrate hardened targets such as bunkers before the explosives detonate. Penetration is achieved by either kinetic energy of the entire projectile or the effects of a shaped-charge.

    Cluster bombs are primarily fragmentation weapons. Cluster bombs, like GP bombs, can feature mix and match components (submunitions, fuzes, etc.) to produce the desired effect. Bomb Construction

    Free-fall bombs have three sections. The bomb body is the casing containing the explosive material. The fuze section can be located in the nose and    or the rear of the bomb and determines the timing of the explosion. The tail section, or fins, determines how the bomb flies through the air. Desired weapons effects are achieved by selecting a particular combination of bomb body, fuzing, and tail section.

    Bomb Bodies

    Bomb bodies vary in size, weight, and thickness of casing. GP bombs have a thinner case and more explosive filler than penetrating bombs, whereas cluster bombs generally come in dispensers that open to release bomblets at predetermined altitudes. The bomb body casing (except for cluster munitions) houses the explosive filler. Upon detona- tion, the high-explosive filler creates an explosive train to achieve the desired weapons effect; detonation is triggered by fusing. Fuzes

    A fuze initiates bomb detonation at a predetermined time and under the desired circumstances. Fuzes are located in the nose or tail of the munition, or both. They are armed by one, or a combination, of the following methods:

    The arming vane, a small propeller, is rotated by airflow after weapon release. A specified number of rotations arms the fuse.

    The arming pin is ejected or withdrawn by a spring action releas- ing the arming mechanism and allowing the fuze to arm.

    The inertia fuze is armed by abrupt changes in the velocity of the bomb caused by the deployment of fins or ballutes.

    The electric fuse is armed by a time-delay circuit powered by a thermal battery activated by extraction of the arming lanyard upon bomb release.

    Different effects are obtained by mating different bombs to different fuzes. A fuze functions in one of the following ways. An impact fuze is designed to function on or after impact. Detonation upon impact is selected for targets such as supply dumps when the main destructive energy desired is blast. For a building, a delayed detonation might be selected so the bomb can penetrate several floors before exploding. A proximity fuze contains a miniature doppler radar set that senses height above the ground. When the explosion occurs above the ground, most of the destructive effect is caused by the bomb casing fragments.

    Proximity-fuzed bombs are used against targets such as troops in trenches, radars, trucks, and other vehicles. In a timed fuze, the delay is normally initiated at bomb release rather than on impact. The timing element is a mechanical or electrical device. A hydrostatic fuze is employed in depth bombs used for underwater demolition work. The MK-3640 Destructor is a special fuze with a sensor that can be mated to a bomb. It senses the presence of metallic objects such as trucks or ships, making it, in effect, a mine. These weapons can be used against either land or water targets. In Southwest Asia, the MK-36 (500-pound) detonators were used to mine the waters in the vicinity of Umn Qasr naval facility.

    Stabilizing Devices

    Bombs are stabilized in flight by either fin or parachute assemblies. These assemblies attach to the rear section of the bomb and keep the bomb nose-down during its descent. These assemblies can separate from the bomb after the bomb hits the ground. Two common types of fin assemblies used by foreign countries are the conical- and box-fin assemblies. The retarding-fin assembly is used by the US for most of its general-purpose bombs.

    The conical fin was the tail section type most often installed on GP bombs dropped in Southwest Asia. The conical fin assembly helped stabilize the bomb in flight, allowing the bomb to exhibit the best effects of low drag and stabilization after release. A conical fin mated with a GP bomb results in a low-drag general-purpose bomb. Two types of high-drag retarders were used in Desert Storm. The first was the air- inflatable retarder tail assembly containing a ballute (combination balloon and parachute) device that deployed shortly after bomb release. There were two types of ballutes, the BSU-49 mated to a 500-pound MK-82 bomb, and the BSU-50 mated to a 2,000-pound MK-84 bomb. The second type of retarding fin was the Snakeye, which had four metal vanes that opened into the windstream to slow the bomb after release. Snakeye fins were used by Navy aircraft to deliver mines into the waters around Iraqi naval bases. These high-drag retarder tail assemblies were used to slow the bomb quickly after a high-speed, low-level release, thereby reducing the chance of an aircraft being damaged by its own bomb fragments.

    Damage Mechanisms

    There are five general categories of munitions damage mechanisms: blast, fragmentation, cratering, shaped charge penetration, and incendiary effects. A given target is usually most vulnerable to one particular damage mechanism, though it may be vulnerable (to a lesser extent) to several damage mechanisms. The factors governing determination of the primary damage mechanism for a given target are: target construction, target location (relative to the point of warhead detonation), warhead damage effects pattern, and the desired type and level of damage.

    Blast is caused by tremendous dynamic overpressures generated by the detonation of a high explosive. Complete (high order) detonation of high-explosives can generate pressures up to 700 tons per square inch and temperatures in the range of 3,000 to 4,500º prior to bomb case fragmentation. It is essential that the bomb casing remain intact long enough after the detonation sequence begins to contain the hot gases and achieve a high order explosion. A consideration when striking hardened targets is that deformation of the weapon casing or fuze may cause the warhead to dud or experience a low order detonation.

    Approximately half of the total energy generated will be used in swelling the bomb casing to 1.5 times its normal size prior to fragmenting and then imparting velocity to those fragments. The remainder of this energy is expended in compression of the air surrounding the bomb and is responsible for the blast effect. This effect is most desirable for attacking walls, collapsing roofs, and destroying or damaging machinery. The effect of blast on personnel is confined to a relatively short distance (110 feet for a 2000 pound bomb). For surface targets blast is maximized by using a general purpose (GP) bomb with an instantaneous fuzing system that will produce a surface burst with little or no confinement of the overpressures generated by excessive burial. For buildings or bunkers the use of a delayed fuzing system allows the blast to occur within the structure maximizing the damage caused by the explosion.

    Fragmentation is caused by the break-up of the weapon casing upon detonation. Fragments of a bomb case can achieve velocities from 3,000 to 11,000 fps depending on the type of bomb (for example GP bomb fragments have velocities of 5,000 to 9,000 fps). Fragmentation is effective against troops, vehicles, aircraft and other soft targets. The fragmentation effects generated from the detonation of a high-explosive bomb have greater effective range than blast, usually up to approximately 3,000 feet regardless of bomb size. The fragmentation effect can be maximized by using a bomb specifically designed for this effect, or by using a GP bomb with an airburst functioning fuze.

    The cratering effect is normally achieved by using a GP bomb with a delayed fuzing system. This system allows bomb penetration before the explosion. Since the explosion occurs within the surface media the energy of the blast is causes the formation of a crater. This effect is most desirable in interdiction of lines of communication (LOC) and area denial operations

    Armor penetration is accomplished by shaped charges or kinetic energy penetrators. This is an effective damage mechanism for tanks, assault guns, armored personnel carriers, and other armored targets. A major problem associated with both shaped charges and kinetic energy penetrators is the lack of visible damage. This may result in repeated attacks to produce battlefield evidence that a target is no longer a threat.

    Fire is effective in interrupting operations of enemy personnel and in damaging supplies stored in the open. Incendiaries produce intense, localized heat designed to ignite adjacent combustible target materials. The true incendiary produces no fireball and relatively little flame. The basic damage mechanism of firebomb weapons comes from the fireball and burning residual fuel globules, impact momentum of the fuel and container, and damage from fires started by the weapon. The sharp cutoff of casualty-producing mechanisms outside the incendiary pattern allows delivery close to friendly troops, usually parallel to the forward line of battle, with minimum risk. Munitions have been developed with full fragmentation and penetrating capabilities coupled with reactive incendiary devices. These improved incendiaries are highly effective against fuel and other flammable targets. A drawback, however, in planning for the employment of incendiary weapons is that incendiary    fire effects are not evaluated in current weaponeering methodologies.